Ben (Patrick) Khaan's
Bicycle Adventure in Central Asia

Ben Patrick has completed his trek through Mongolia - and quite an experience - even for Ben. See his story below. There is now also an account from his first day in Beijing.

Send an email to Ben if you have questions or want to give him some encouragement.

The map below gives you a sense of how far all of this is from our comfortable existence in San Luis Obispo - or from any other "civilized" places!

The first part of the trip will be in the northern part of Mongolia where he will take an "organized" tour through the Khovsgol National Park.

Itinerary
Date
Miles
Activity
8/18
 
Arrive in Ulaan Baatar (the capital of Mongolia).
8/19
20
Fly to Moron and begin cycling across the steppe on dirt tracks toward Khatgal, on Lake Khovsgol.
8/20
40
Ride north and camp outside Khatgal
8/21
35
Ride into Khatgal and Khovsgol National Park. Visit the Park headquarters. Continue north along the shore of Lake Khovsgol
8/22
20
ride to Har Uss Springs. Establish base camp for layover day. Day hikes or rides available.
8/23
-
Rest day at Har Uss. Day rides, hiking or fishing.
8/24
25
Ride halfway over Jigleg Pass through the Saridag mountains. Mountain pass is over 10,000 feet.
8/25
25
Ride to the town of Renchinluhmbe in Darhat Valley. Overnight in tents in Renchinluhmbe. The one chance for a shower!
8/26
25
Begin riding south through the Darhat Valley. Plenty of opportunities to meet local herdsmen, drink tea and swap stories.
8/27
30

Continue riding through Darhat Valley to Ulaan Uul. Sever large river crossings.

8/28
30
Over the Darhat Valley pass (also over 10,000 feet) and begin long winding downhill back to Moron
8/29
30
Continue riding to Moron - camp along Delger Moron river.
8/30
   
Return flight from Moron to Ulaan Baatar.
8/31
 
Free day in Ulaan Baatar for sightseeing and shopping. Farewell dinner.
9/1
 
Fly to Beijing.

 

Greetings from Mongolia!!

At last I am able to communicate if this does not bomb- out before I finish! Just got back from my bike adventure last night very tired but exuberant. What an adventure - has to rank high among all of my trips.

Lets see, biked about 250 very tough miles, 25 miles was a tough day. Rode a yak, a horse up a very steep hill in the snow, and drove a Russian 66 - four wheel drive. Got snowed in on the pass, mud up to our axles, transmission linkage broken. So Mishig, our driver, recruited 12 horsemen to pry out the truck with long poles, build a log road and, push us out! Oh, pounded on the linkage with a rock and crowbar and got it repaired.

It was a mystery where all the horseman came from but in that vast desolation, people always seemed to show up. We had a great cook, great food, not always mutton. Each day they set up the gear at our new camp spot, which provided a warm and dry shelter. Otherwise we slept in tents which were also dry.

People are now migrating to their Winter pastures, each family with three or four oxcarts, wooden wheels, piled with their total household and gear. As meat was getting low the last few days, it was slaughter time, two sheep. They kill the sheep by cutting a hole in its chest and pulling out its heart. Nice!! The sheep didn't seem to suffer and, it saves all of the blood this way. Didn't have any fermented mares milk. Darn! There is a shortage because of the severe past winter. Did have yak milk, butter, and cheese.

Well, I am getting nervous that the computer will crash, So I will close for now. Keep those emails coming, it is so nice to hear from you all in this far away place! This is only the beginning of my story telling so, be prepared to hear a lot more when I get home.

Tomorrow it is off to Beijing for more biking and more stories. Take care, form the land of Chingis Khan.

Ben

After spending two weeks in the wilds of Central Asia, Ben returns to civilization to see some of the sights in and around Beijing (also on his bicycle)

Itinerary
9/1
Study the traffic rules and stay out of jail.
9/2
Ride around city to see such sights as Tian An Men Square, Mao's Rememory Hall and Palace Museum.
9/3
Ride to the Great Wall and spend the night there.
9/4
Return to Beijing seeing the Ming Tombs along the way.
9/5
Ride out to the Summer Palace.
9/6
Shopping in Beijing.
9/7
Return to San Luis Obispo.

 

Day 1 in Beijing

Hi everyone! Got here yesterday very tired as I haden't had a day off since the beginning of the trip. So, todays is my day off at least from biking. Spent the day trying to get a little "street wise". The people here have been very kind and helpful which makes one feel confortable in a very different society. Woops, just discovered that the spell check is in Chinese. Diden't spell that right did I?

The streets are full of bicyclists going the speed of the SLOspokes or less - no hammerheads here!! Kent, you woulden"t be able to go so slow! I have a twelve mile ride tomorrow, probably will take two hours!!

Feels like it is ninty degrees here and very humid. This internet cafe is just down the street from my hotel thank goodness!, for the hotel charges about 10 times as much. Beijing is certainly in the modern world. Not a lot different, except for the culture, than other large cities throughout the world. Except so far, the food tastes more like sawdust than anything else. And, prices aren't much cheaper than in the US! Probably out in the country it is cheaper.

Well, this e-mail turned out to be longer than I expected it to be. I have a full schedule for the next three days, so you probabley will not be hearing much from me for a while. Best wishes to everyone!! Also, talked to Babette today, so she can fill you in on more details. Clark! Send me an e-mail so I can get your address correct!

By to all, Ben

Day 3 in Beijing

It's like being a performer in a ballet. Weaving in and out, coming close to other cyclist then there is no one, slow - a little slower (no speedsters here), somehow everyone missing everyone (including taxi's in the bike lane!).

I started out biking yesterday with a little hesitation but quickly gained confidence and found it much fun! So took my usual Sunday morning "B and G" ride to Tien'anim Square and the Forbidden City. This was about eight miles to where I had to walk with the bike. Met a Chinese family who were amazed at my exploits and invited me to there home to see artwork. This I reluctantly refused as I had a full day planned, fuller than I thought!

Parked my bike and locked it near the gate to the Forbidden City and proceeded about five miles of viewing that wonderful place. This took over two hours. Returned, began to unlock my bike - didn't open!! Tried and tried to no avail! What to do?, for my cable cutters were in my hotel room! Then a guy from a nearby snack stand came, had me prove that the bike was mine, and tried the lock. I thought that maybe he knew how to pick locks - didn't open. So, I made the scissors sign, he disappeared and returned with wire-cutters and a huge screwdriver. Big relief! But what am I going to do with no bike-lock!? Pointed to a bike lock on a nearby bike, then pointed to my trusty red bike. My friend made a motion and disappeared again. Came back with a brand new bike lock still in its package. How much? 25 yan (about 2 dollars!}. Motioned I'll take it!! My friend proceeded to install the lock - didn't fit on the fat aluminum frame! The Chinese ride iron "flying pigeons" - about fifty pounds, one gear, skinny frames. No problem for my new-found friend! Disappeared again and returned with long bolts. Finally the lock was installed, He demonstrated how it worked, I paid three dollars, shock hands, took his picture, and was on my way! Whew!!

By this time it was 2:30 so, off to the worlds largest McDonald's, nearby. Had a spicy chicken sandwich, fries, and a coke. Sure tasted good. Being a "Gringo" they tried to give me the regular chicken sandwich - I wanted spicy! and I got spicy. Parked my bike down the street in a gigantic McDonald's bicycle parking lot (one of two) each having several attendants safekeeping the bikes. (I don't know who would steal a bike anyway - the penalty is death, you pay for your bullet! Back to the square, Mau's tomb, and many kite flyers. Someone motioned to me, would I like a turn at flying his kite? Showed me how to operate the huge reel. Great wind! Great fun!!

After trading e-mail addresses with another guy, engineering student, it was time to join the ballet and return the eight miles to my hotel. Could I find my way? I did and here I am to tell about that wonderful and exhausting day in Beijing!

Ben

Day 5 in Beijing

Hi all! This wonderful but trying trip is ending and in a few hours I will be on my way back to SLO town. To finish things off, I decided to opt for a day of cycling the streets of Beijing. Did another fifteen miles of weaving in and out of masses of bicycles, taxes, cars, people. Learned to protect myself from the vehicles by hiding in the middle of a group of cyclists. Again, it was getting into the rhythm of it all, actually quite enjoyable but much more intense on this a weekday. After making several wrong turns, i finally made it to the Llama Buddha Temple. Another amazing place of beautiful structures enclosing huge siting, reclining, standing, gold encrusted Buddha's. The smell of burning incense waufted everywhere, A Chinese gal remarked that a lot of the tourists had bellies like Buddha but not me! Ha!

Well, it was past time for lunch at McDonald's for a respite from Oriental food (there are over fifty Mc Donald's in Beijing). Parked my bike in the McDonald's parking lot, fee less than 1 cent. Paid the attendant and went in to enjoy a Macfish, chips and a coke. Next biked through the Hutong area (ancient residences) with a stop at the bell and drum towers. These were used in ancient times to drum and ring out the time of day to the city. Climbed one tower (seventy stairs, very steep, straight up) and had a marvelous panoramic view of the city.

Time for the last ride back to Hotel Hua Du and to prepare my trusty bike for travel. Off with the pedals and rotated the handlebars sideways. Went through the hotel's revolving door to be met by an excited manager, "What happened to your bike!!". He relaxed after I explained the procedure for shipping my bike.

Well, thats all the news from Beijing where all the men are dragons, all the women pheonixes and the children are perfectly happy. See you soon!, Ben